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AGGRAND fertilizers work wonders on corn and Bill Moulton has proof. His Cherokee Pride ornamental corn is usually about nine-and-a-half feet tall, but by adding a combination of AGGRAND Natural Fertilizer 4-3-3, Liquid Bonemeal 0-12-0 and Liquid Lime to his normal fertilization routine, this summer his corn matured to a height of about 12 feet.
Richard A. Ward of Seaman, Ohio experience similar success with AGGRAND. He planted three rows of corn on July 1, 2000. He used three ounces of AGGRAND Natural Fertilizer 4-3-3 for every gallon of water and applied it to the soil after seeding. He also planted three rows of corn using his regular chemical fertilizer.
“I applied the AGGRAND fertilizer two more times as a foliar application,” said Ward, “once when the corn was 14 to 16 inches tall, and once more when it was tasselling. After treating this corn with AGGRAND Natural Fertilizer 4-3-3 it really took off, and it has not stopped growing since.”
By September 2, 2000, the AGGRAND corn was between six and seven feet tall. The corn that was given chemical fertilizer was only three feet tall.
“I have done a lot of field experiments with other fertilizers,” said Ward, “but I’ve never seen anything work as well as this AGGRAND Natural Fertilizer 4-3- 3. I also do deer and turkey food plots and I will be using AGGRAND 4-3-3 exclusively as my fertilizer for these plots. I wish I had heard of AGGRAND a long time ago, but late is better than never.
“The AGGRAND 4-3-3 is so impressive that people slow down to look at my corn and food plots. Then they stop to ask what I did to get them to look so good. I tell them the difference is that I use AGGRAND Natural Fertilizer.”
A glossy, scarlet red, very tart berry, the cranberry belongs to the same genus (Vaccinium) as the blueberry, bilberry, and its smaller Scandinavian cousin the lingonberry. Like blueberries, cranberries can still be found growing as wild shrubs in northern Europe, northern Asia and North America.
The first person to eat a cranberry must have felt both delight and disappointment at the sight of a bog full of shiny red berries that tasted so sour as to be nearly unpalatable. The cranberry proved to have many valuable attributes nonetheless, and was revered by early foragers for its high vitamin content and keeping qualities as an ingredient in pemmican. Mashed along with deer meat and fat, cranberries made pemmican a highly nutritious survival ration. The bright red juice could be concentrated into a brilliant dye for blankets and clothing. Combined with cornmeal into a poultice, it was used to disinfect wounds and open sores.
It is likely that the cranberry appeared on the first thanksgiving table in some form or other, and it eventually became the fruit of choice for New England’s whalers for the prevention of scurvy.
Known as “craneberries” by early settlers because of the flower’s resemblance to a crane’s bill and head, the cranberry that we now know from holiday feasts grows on a hardy plant with creeping stems that is cultivated in bogs. While not grown in water, cranberries depend on periods of flooding for both cultivation and harvesting. Cranberries are harvested in September and October, after which the plants enter a dormant period. The bogs are then flooded until thick ice forms, and then drained. The ice and air form a barrier against desiccating winter winds. In the early 1800’s, a Massachusetts man discovered that sand blown into the bogs from nearby dunes increased the plants’ productivity. This observation led to the development of the commercial cranberry industry in the 1870’s. Now every few years, sand is spread on top of the ice in winter, and when it melts in the spring, the sand drops evenly on the cranberry plants, rejuvenating them by encouraging the growth of more underground stems (rhizomes). Cranberries are now often harvested by re-flooding the fields to float the berries into rafts for easier collection.
In the 1880’s, a New Jersey cranberry grower discovered after spilling a basket of berries down stairs that when he went to pick them up, all the best berries had ended up at the bottom. The cranberries had graded themselves because the best berries bounced all the way down, while the lower quality ones stayed put on the stairs. The little air pockets in the good berries gave them the nickname “bounceberries”, and led to the invention of bounceboards, which allowed for the mechanical grading of the fruit.
The major cranberry-producing areas in the U.S. are Wisconsin, Massachusetts, New Jersey, Oregon and Washington, in order of importance.
The cranberry has long been valued for its ability to prevent and treat urinary tract infection. Recent studies suggest that it may also help promote gastrointestinal and oral health, prevent the formation of kidney stones, lower LDL (bad) and raise HDL (good) cholesterol, aid in recovery from stroke, and even help prevent cancer.
Kidney infections and most other infectious diseases are initiated by the adhesion of pathogenic organisms to the tissues of the host. The cranberry’s ability to block this adhesion has been demonstrated not only against E. coli, the bacterium most commonly responsible for urinary tract infection, but for a number of other common pathogens as well, including the bacterium responsible for most gastric ulcers.
Cranberries contain quinic acid, unusual in that it is excreted unchanged in the urine, which becomes sufficiently acidic to prevent the formation of kidney stones. Cranberry juice has been shown to reduce the amount of ionized calcium, a major cause of kidney stone formation, in the urine of people with recurrent kidney stones by more than 50 percent.
Other beneficial effects of the ubiquitous cranberry include: Raising HDL (good) cholesterol by 10 percent with just three glasses of juice per day, corresponding to an approximately 40 percent reduction in risk of heart disease; increasing antioxidant levels (cranberries contain five times the antioxidant content of broccoli); inducing cancer cells to undergo apoptosis (programmed cell death).
Understanding why a particular weed is growing in a garden or field can help a grower figure out how to control it. Weeds will often contain high amounts of the mineral(s) that the topsoil is lacking, and they can be the key to isolating a particular soil problem. For example, the presence of certain weeds can indicate soil compaction, low fertility levels, excess soil acidity or alkalinity, or the absence of certain key nutrients. Many of these soil problems are the result of the use and overuse of agricultural chemicals. These toxins, for that is what they are, gradually deplete the soil of its biological life, slowing decomposition, reducing nutrient availability, and increasing soil compaction. Earth-worms are soon discouraged and the life seeps slowly from the soil. Weeds are nature’s way of helping to rebuild damaged soil and showing the observant grower just how to do it. Besides being good indicators, deep rooted weeds can bring scarce minerals back up to the surface and make them available to crops via decomposition. This is simply a continuous, natural soil-balancing process that increases the level of organic matter via microbial activity. Gardeners and farmers have adapted to this process by delegating certain weeds, called green manures or cover crops, and using natural fertilizers to return nutrients and organic matter to the soil, encourage increased microbial activity and root growth, and attract a healthy earthworm population.
Make conditions less favorable for a variety of weeds by using AGGRAND Organic Series Natural Fertilizer 4-3-3 to encourage microbial activity and speed up decomposition and nutrient availability. Weed pressures can often be reduced by balancing the phosphorus (P) to potassium (K) ratio to about 2:1. Use equal amounts of AGGRAND Natural Liquid Bonemeal 0-12-0 and AGGRAND Natural Kelp and Sulfate of Potash (about 2 oz each/gallon of water per 25 square feet) for soil balancing. A soil test is recommended to establish a starting point.
The garden has been cleared of all the leftovers from the growing season. The leaves have been raked and the lawn has been mowed for the last time. Now comes the second harvest: all that’s left of the nutrients and minerals that were taken from the soil to grow the vegetables, fruits and herbs you enjoyed over the summer. This represents an investment of sunlight, fertilizer and time, so let’s not waste it. It’s time to start up the compost heap.
Begin by layering the leaves and grass clippings alternately, with some of the bulkier material between layers to trap pockets of air to help supply oxygen to the decomposing microbes. A one-inch layer of garden soil or old compost added occasionally will add microbes and help compact the pile, allowing good heat buildup. With this method, and regular turning and wetting down (moist but not sopping), you will end up with a nutrient- and mineral- rich material called humus that is easily used by plants when added to garden soil.
To help the composting process along, sprinkle some AGGRAND Natural Fertilizer 4-3-3 on the pile (3 oz./gallon of water) before layering or turning, and leave the top of the pile concave so liquid can seep down gradually. Cover the pile to keep rain from over-saturating it.
The easiest way to compost is to introduce composting worms, aka red wigglers (Eisenia fetida or Eisenia andrei) into your pile and let them do the turning. There are several places to find them on the Internet, and they may cost around 20 to 25 dollars per 1000, which is all you need to get started. Simply make a hole into the center of your pile and place the worms in it. Cover with a healthy layer of fresh compostables, water in with AGGRAND 4-3-3 and let them get to work. In a few weeks your compost pile will begin to shrink as the worms do their duty. They will even take care of household food scraps. Just remember to dig a hole for the scraps and then cover with leaves. If you live in a frigid climate, you might want to try indoor worm composting, which is easily researched online.
Studies have shown that the introduction of microbes into plant growth cycles generates an anti-oxidative environment in the soil. This in turn can lead to an increased accumulation of antioxidants in plant tissues, contributing to the general state of health.
Richard Ward of Seaman, Ohio, shot his largest ever buck with a bow on November 9, 2005. It weighed 265 pounds and had 10 points. For five years, Ward has been feeding deer a healthy diet with his AGGRAND fertilized food plots. Every year, the sheer number of deer who visit his food plots is a testament to how well AGGRAND works.
“I’m extremely pleased with the performance of my AGGRAND products,” says Ward. “I use nothing but AGGRAND, particularly the Liquid Fertilizer and the Liquid Lime. AGGRAND products do exactly what they’re supposed to do.”
Deer can’t seem to get enough AGGRAND fertilized turnips, corn, soybeans, alfalfa, clover and kale. Ward typically mixes together the Liquid Fertilizer 4-3-3 and Liquid Lime in a solution and spreads it twice. The first time he sprays when he discs and then he sprays again 40 days later. “It’s very easy to use and it really works,” says Ward. “My turnips are bigger than softballs.”
Ward routinely sees as many as 14 deer in his turnips at one time. Before the end of the season the entire plot is gone.
Every year, deer also wipe out two acres of his AGGRAND fertilized corn. “My corn attracts so many deer that I can’t put my hand down flat on the snow covered ground without touching deer tracks.”
Deer also gather to eat Ward’s AGGRAND fertilized soybeans. “They love it,” says Ward. “This year they completely wiped out five acres of soy beans. They ate everything; beans, stems and leaves. I won’t use any other fertilizer. You get what you pay for and AGGRAND is really worth it.”
The red raspberry as we know it today has probably been cultivated for more than 2,000 years. It is indigenous to North America and Asia Minor, with the first recorded use by the ancient people of Troy. Records of the berry’s domestication have been found in the journals of Palladius, a 4th century Roman agriculturist. The Romans appear to have eventually spread raspberry cultivation throughout Europe. Later, the Britons cultivated and improved raspberry varieties and are known to have brought them to New York by 1771.
Most of the varieties in commercial production today are hybrids of imported and native varieties selected for hardiness, flavor and handling characteristics. Ninety-five percent of the crop is processed or frozen, with Washington, California and Oregon the three highest producing states by far.
However, in today’s world of commuter fruit and vegetables, and the ability of every supermarket to satisfy our taste buds with a wide variety of well-traveled foods, the raspberry stands out as a relatively untraveled fruit. The chances are very good that if you like raspberries, you either grow them or know someone who does. By the time a raspberry (picked ahead of its time) reaches the specialty fruit shelf in your local market, it has been over-handled, over-packaged and mightily overvalued. How much would you pay for under-ripe berries, which, unlike the convenient tomato, not only cease ripening, but also begin to rot at just about the moment they are arrive on grocery shelves? In short, the best raspberries are picked by the people who are going to be eating them.
So how difficult is it to grow your own raspberries? All you really need is an area at least 10 square feet that receives six or more hours of direct sun and has good drainage. Raspberry roots should be easy to come by if you know anyone who grows them. Raspberries are escape artists. The plants tend to spread by underground runners, or stolons, and before you know it there is a raspberry coming up in the daisy patch. These fugitives can be dug up in the spring and replanted somewhere they are wanted. If you can allow three feet between rows and three feet between plants, you’ll have picking room when the time comes. You can also mail order raspberry roots, or look for them at a local garden center. Chances are, they’ll carry a variety that does well in your area. Your agricultural extension agent will be familiar with the appropriate varieties, also.
The soil your raspberries are planted in doesn’t have to be all that good, as long as it drains well and you mulch the rows with compost or rotted manure that is fairly finely ground. The soil pH should probably be around 6.0-6.5. Low pH soils can be adjusted with six oz. per gallon of AGGRAND Natural Liquid Lime per 100 sq. ft about once every six weeks during the growing season. At planting, fertilize the soil with three oz. per gallon of AGGRAND Natural Fertilizer 4- 3-3, five oz. per gallon AGGRAND Natural Liquid Bonemeal and one to two oz. per gallon of AGGRAND Natural Kelp and Sulfate of Potash mixed together. Use about a gallon of solution per 100 square feet. Reapply this solution without the bonemeal once per month until harvest. After the berries are finished for the season, fertilize once more with the bonemeal and kelp only.
For foliar applications, mix two to three oz. of AGGRAND 4-3-3 per gallon of water and apply as a fine mist to 100 sq. ft., covering the leaves with solution in spring after the leaves open and again after first bloom. Then mix one to two oz. of AGGRAND Natural Kelp and Sulfate of Potash per gallon of water and apply once or twice during fruit formation up to three weeks before final harvest. The addition of a biodegradable surfactant, or spreader, increases effectiveness by increasing adhesion to the leaf surface.
Foliar feeding with AGGRAND is up to 20 times more efficient than applying amendments to the soil. The keys to optimizing results when using AGGRAND products is to apply them when plants need the extra nutrients, use a biodegradable vegetable oil surfactant (spreader-sticker) to maximize adhesion to the leaf surface, and adjust the ph of the fertilizer solution to maximize uptake and plant use efficiency. Apply in the early morning or late evening, and do not apply before or after rainfall or irrigation.
Plants need extra nutrients during transplanting, early growth and development, pre-bloom, early bloom and fruit formation. Foliar applications are effective when soil chemistry imbalance, cold soil, or low soil fertility limit the root uptake of nutrients. Most plants respond to foliar applications when they are timed to coincide with seedling emergence (3 to 6 inches in height after 2 to 4 true leaves have formed), 2 to 3 weeks before first bloom (legumes such as snap beans or soybeans), first bloom (tomatoes, cucumbers, melons), runnering (cucumbers, melons) cluster formation (tomatoes) and fruit fill (tomatoes, melons, cucumbers). When AGGRAND 4-3-3 and 0-0- 8 fertilizers are applied before drought, frost, insect attack, or the onset of disease-susceptible stages, the effects of the stress will be reduced or eliminated.
Some growers apply AGGRAND fertilizers on a calendar- based approach up to eight times per season. A one to four percent dilution rate (1.25 to 5 oz. AGGRAND per gallon of water) is sufficient for foliar applications. Use higher fertilizer concentrations on heavy feeders and low fertility soils. Never exceed four percent because the foliage could be damaged. On sandy soils reduce the rate by one-quarter to one-third and apply every two to three weeks (reduce by one-third and apply every two weeks for heavy feeders on sandy soil). If you apply AGGRAND products every week split the application rate in half (one percent dilution rate).
AGGRAND 4-3-3 and AGGRAND 0- 12-0 products can also be applied to promote flowering, fruit, and seed formation. Apply these products when the plants have reached the phase (size, age, and time of year) when flowering is possible.
To increase adhesion of the spray to the leaf surface, add a spreader-sticker to the spray tank. A biodegradable non-toxic vegetable oil based product is recommended. Mix according to the directions (1.5 to 2 percent dilution rate, two to three oz./gal.) is usually recommended.
To optimize uptake and plant use efficiency of AGGRAND products, adjust the ph of the fertilizer solution to the proper level for the particular stage of growth. Adjust the spray mix ph to less than 6.5 to promote vegetative growth, and 7.0 to 7.4 to promote flower, seed, and fruit formation. Use baking soda, hydrated lime, or calcium nitrate to raise the ph and apple cider vinegar to lower the ph. Calcium nitrate works the best with AGGRAND 4-3-3 because it produces the most balanced chemistry. When using baking soda, do not use more than 1 tbs./gal. of the fertilizer mixture because it will add too much sodium. Test the solution with litmus paper, which is made to test both acidic and alkaline solutions. Use only a small amount of the spray solution-adjusting agent at a time, before retesting the solution ph (until you are comfortable with the process of adjusting spray ph).
When AGGRAND fertilizers are injected into irrigation systems, optimum plant responses are possible because the plants are fed through the leaves and roots, and the microbial activity in the soil is stimulated. Transplant shock is eliminated when AGGRAND 4-3-3 and 0-0-8 fertilizers are applied immediately after transplanting. Early plant growth and development of seeded crops are maximized by applying AGGRAND 4-3-3, 0-0-8 and 0-12-0 once several true leaves have developed. Injection is the easiest and most effective way to obtain optimum results.
To apply AGGRAND fertilizers through irrigation systems, dilute the fertilizers with water in the mix tank. Depending on the volume of the mix tank the fertilizer is diluted to different concentrations, but 50 percent dilution is typical. Then this mix is filtered through a 50-100-mesh filter before injecting it into the irrigation water. Depending on how often the fertilizer is applied, how much water is being applied, and the concentration of the fertilizer in the mix tank, the injection ratio varies between 25-1 and 200-1. The final dilution rate is between one-quarter and 2 percent.
On standard field sprayers, use turbo flood jet nozzles and remove the nozzle screens if necessary to reduce clogging when applying AGGRAND fertilizers. Standard flood jets, extended range flat fans, or disk nozzles may also be used. In addition, self-cleaning line strainers (by-pass filters) re-circulate particulates until they are broken down through agitation and pump sheering action (especially useful when applying AGGRAND Bonemeal and Liquid Lime). All line strainers (by-pass and in-line) should be placed on the output side of the pump to maximize pressure and flow in the system.
NOTE: Special instruments (conductivity meter and ph meters) are available for checking the spray solution strength and ph (soil can be tested with meters also). A refract meter, ph meter, and conductivity meter can also be used to monitor plant health and development in the field by extracting a small amount of plant sap and placing it on the measuring element of the meter.
Gardens can be tilled in the spring and fall. Fall tillage combined with a fertilizer application aids in the breakdown of crop residue and provides readily available nutrients from the fertilizer and decomposed organic matter by the next year.
A spring fertilizer application provides some readily available nutrients, but more of the nitrogen is locked up through the decomposition of plant residue. Either way, fertilizer should be applied at planting time for optimum results. AGGRAND 4-3-3 Natural Fertilizer can be applied either time. A soil test of the garden area is beneficial in determining the most useful fertilizer rates and combinations to use. For most gardens one quart of AGGRAND 4-3-3 tilled into 1,000 to 2,000 square feet of garden is sufficient for the production of most crops.
Using AGGRAND products in spring soil preparation and fall tillage is straightforward. The applications are made by spray broadcasting AGGRAND before the final trip over the garden with the roto-tiller. The soil is allowed to dry before tilling in the fertilizer. In the fall the soil should not be tilled as finely or as deeply, but the fertilizer application is still made before the final pass with the tiller.
Another way AGGRAND products are used for garden crops is banding the fertilizer into a trench near the seed. The best way to band fertilizer is to dig a trench slightly to one side and beneath where the seed will be placed (2-4” below and 1-2” to the side of the seeds). The fertilizer is mixed with water and then dribbled into the trench. Another furrow is formed just to one side of this trench and then the seed is planted in the furrow.
Finally, fertilizer is applied to some crops by broadcasting AGGRAND with a hose-end sprayer or other equipment after the seed is planted.
Blossom-end rot (BER) leaves a sunken, brownish- black spot on the bottom, or blossom end, of tomatoes. It is caused by calcium displacement; calcium being sent to the newer, growing tissues rather than an actual shortage. Consistent watering and early fertilization with AGGRAND Natural Liquid Fertilizer 4-3-3 supplemented with AGGRAND Natural Liquid Bonemeal 0-12-0 will help prevent BER from damaging your tomatoes. Also avoid using high-nitrogen fertilizers that can promote too much leafy growth.
Transplanting is a stressful period for young bedding plants. Minimizing transplant shock keeps plants growing vigorously, avoiding flowering delays and reduced yields.
AGGRAND Natural Fertilizer is a must for watering-in small transplants. Use a mixture of three oz. of AGGRAND 4-3-3/gal. of water for watering-in transplants. The addition of one to two oz. of AGGRAND Liquid Bonemeal to the solution to increase phosphorus and calcium availability when watering in the transplants will aid in promoting long-term root development. Shrubs and trees should be soaked overnight in a bucket of 4-3-3 before transplanting. Use a mixture of one oz. of AGGRAND 4-3-3/gal. of water for bare root soaking.
-Avoid transplanting during the heat of the day to avoid root desiccation (drying out).
-Cloudy weather is the best time to transplant.
-Keep soil moist until root systems are well established.
In the hottest part of the summer, lawn grasses enter a temporary dormancy. During this time, regular deep watering of at least two inches per week is required to keep grass healthy, especially species such as Kentucky Bluegrass that are less tolerant of drought.
In late summer and early autumn, when the weather cools down, continue lawn care with an AGGRAND program of 1 pint AGGRAND Natural Kelp and Sulfate of Potash, 1 quart AGGRAND Natural Fertilizer 4-3-3 and one quart AGGRAND Natural Liquid Lime where needed per 3,000 to 5,000 square feet. Apply every three to four weeks. Stimulate root growth during the last feeding in autumn by substituting 1 quart per 2,000 square feet of AGGRAND Natural Liquid Bonemeal for the Natural Liquid Lime.
Remember that autumn is the best time to rejuvenate an unhealthy lawn; dethatch, aerate, top-dress, over seed, roll in and keep moist.
If you’re not ready to give in to the changing seasons, try bringing some of your garden plants inside.
Herbs can be potted up, trimmed to offset root loss and watered in with an extra-dilute solution of AGGRAND Liquid Lime and AGGRAND Natural Fertilizer. Use two ounces each per gallon of water.
If you have a tomato plant that is bearing fruit but isn’t too large (cherry tomatoes are ideal), prune it back to about one foot, dig it up, pot it up and water it in thoroughly with a solution of AGGRAND Liquid Bonemeal and AGGRAND Natural Fertilizer at three ounces each per gallon. Put it in a sunny window, or maybe add a grow light, and soon you can enjoy the fruits of summer once again.
In late summer garden centers everywhere offer potted ’mums in bloom. They are often taken indoors or put into planters until the initial flush of bloom is over. Then they are tossed into the woods or the compost heap.
With a little aftercare, ’mums can be planted out in the garden and be bursting at the seams with blooms next year.
When your store-bought mum has finished blooming, cut it back to about three inches and plant it in a sunny, well-drained place in the garden. Water it in liberally with a solution of AGGRAND Liquid Bonemeal at six ounces to the gallon.
When new growth begins in spring, water with a solution of three ounces per gallon each of AGGRAND Natural Fertilizer and AGGRAND Natural Liquid Lime. To encourage branching for the maximum number of blooms, pinch the new growth back every two weeks until about the first of August. Water each time with the solution of AGGRAND Natural Fertilizer and Liquid Lime.
A good fall houseplant maintenance regimen should begin with a thorough leaching outside or in the bathtub. Run a gallon of tap or rain water through the plant pot, then top dress with some fresh compost or potting soil.
Water the plant in with a two ounces per gallon solution of AGGRAND Natural Fertilizer 4-3-3 mixed with three ounces per gallon of AGGRAND Natural Liquid Lime. One month later apply a three ounces per gallon solution of AGGRAND Natural Liquid Bonemeal, and repeat every two months during winter. Repeat the application of AGGRAND Natural Fertilizer 4-3-3 every month.
“I had the opportunity to sell any fertilizer, but AGGRAND is the only one I decided to personally carry.”
Tom Edwards from Livonia, MI was the largest independent distributor of wildlife food plot products in the world and he says AGGRAND Natural Liquid Fertilizer revolutionized his business.
“At first we used the commercial chemical fertilizers and agricultural lime that was available in the area,” said Edwards. But right from the start it was obvious to him that there were downsides to using chemical fertilizers and ag lime.
“Using ag lime really limited us because you need rain to make it work and it takes a year to do its job. It’s also way too much work to get trucks full of ag lime into remote areas, which is where most food plots are. AGGRAND Natural Liquid Lime is much easier and just as effective, it starts working immediately.
“What really caught my attention about AGGRAND was the all-natural, organic aspects. It’s much less invasive to the local terrain.
“The days of just setting out an old corn crib loaded with chemicals that can leak out into the nearby creek are over. If a farmer tries that and run-off ends up in his neighbor’s land, the farmer is legally liable. Today farmers can go out of business from lawsuits over something like that. So I started educating myself on AGGRAND because it’s all-natural. Everyone I knew who used AGGRAND had phenomenal results.
“Some people don’t have their own land they can plant on. I’d advise these people to get permission to plant on government property. Once they find out you’re going to use an all-natural fertilizer, they will usually let you do it. When the DNR in Michigan found out some of my customers were going to fertilize with AGGRAND Natural Liquid Fertilizer there was no problem at all.
“My customers that have used Aggrand fertilizer on their food plots have seen the benefits first-hand. Their clover and alfalfa didn’t go dormant in summer during drought. It stayed green.
“The better your food plot is, the healthier the deer will be. Ideally the deer will be eating as much good food as possible from February to August. This is good for antler development, but it’s also great for does. When a doe has a fawn, they need two to three times the protein because they are lactating to feed the fawn. If a doe doesn’t have the right nutrition, the fawn won’t get it either. A healthy fawn now is a healthy buck in the future. That justifies AGGRAND on food plots for deer. It’s also great for turkey, pheasant, partridge, quail, bear and all kinds of other animals. If your plot is green and luscious, you’re going to bring the animals in.
“Ninety-nine percent of growing is soil preparation. Aggrand Natural Fertilizer 4-3-3 and Liquid Lime are perfect for this. Aggrand also promotes worm growth. Worms produce hundreds of pounds of waste per acre in a year and that fertilizes the soil even further and allows your crop to yield longer even during a more stressful season.
“You can make your land a self-sustaining system. You’re only going to get out of the soil what you put in. So the more you do for your land, the more it will produce for you.
“AGGRAND gives you more bang for your buck and no harmful run-off.”
AGGRAND application rates and experiences featured here have been submitted by sources independent of AGGRAND. Your experiences may vary. Optimal application rates can vary due to soil condition, crop type, weather patterns and many other factors. AGGRAND recommends and supports soil analysis to determine optimal application rates.